Moving to Oklahoma - Oklahoma City, Norman, Muskogee, Tulsa
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Oklahoma,
located near the central part of the conterminous United States, has an
area of 181,049 sq km (69,903 sq mi) and ranks 20th in size among the
states. It is bordered by Kansas and Colorado on the north, by New Mexico
on the west, by Texas on the west and south, and by Missouri and Arkansas
on the east.
Formed by the union of Oklahoma Territory and Indian Territory, Oklahoma
was admitted as the 46th state on Nov. 16, 1907. Oklahoma is a Choctaw
word meaning "red man." Oklahoma has been nicknamed the "Sooner State"
for the settlers who tried to enter the area and claim land sooner than
it was legal to do so. The state is an important producer of agricultural
products, especially wheat, cattle, and cotton, and mineral fuels, notably
petroleum products and coal.
LAND AND RESOURCES
Oklahoma is located in the transitional zone between the eastern and western
parts of the nation. The Ozark Plateau and the Ouachita Mountains are
similar to the Appalachian highlands to the east; the central part of
the state constitutes the southern part of the Central Lowlands; and northwestern
Oklahoma is a part of the Great Plains. Elevation increases from 88 m
(289 ft) near the southeastern corner of the state to 1,516 m (4,973 ft)
on Black Mesa in the northwestern corner of the Panhandle.
The Ouachita Mountains are a series of long, steep-sloped, parallel ridges
formed largely by folding and faulting, many capped by a massive layer
of sandstone. The region has the greatest relief in Oklahoma. The Ozark
Mountains, or Ozark Plateau, and the Ouachitas are separated by the Arkansas
River. The Ozarks are composed of horizontal layers of rocks, mainly limestones
and shales. The Wichita Mountains in the southwest are largely granite,
rhyolite, and gabbro peaks with boulder-strewn slopes, and much of the
Arbuckle region in the south central part of the state is formed of ribbed
edges of limestone with complex folds and faults. The Osage Plains in
central Oklahoma are underlain by nearly horizontal rocks that dip slightly
westward; they are divided into the Eastern Lowlands, Osage Prairies,
Cross Timbers, and Western Red Prairies. The Great Plains have elevations
that increase westward from 610 to almost 1,525 m (2,000 to 5,000 ft).
The northern limits of the Gulf Coastal Plain in the southeast constitute
an area of soft sandstone, shale, and limestone.
Soils
Oklahoma's soils correspond to its physiographic and climatic regions.
About two-thirds of the soils developed under grass and the remainder
under forest. The prairie soils in the west are extremely fertile when
moisture is sufficient.
Rivers and Lakes
All drainage from Oklahoma occurs either by the Arkansas River, which
crosses the northeastern quarter of the state, or the Red River, which
follows the southern boundary. The Canadian River, the Cimarron, the Neosho,
and the Illinois are major tributaries of the Arkansas. The North Fork
of the Red River and the Washita, the Kiamichi, and the Little rivers
flow into the Red River. Several large artificial lakes have been formed
by the damming of rivers. Eufaula Reservoir, covering 427 sq km (165 sq
mi) at normal level, is the largest.
Climate
Oklahoma climate varies from the high, arid continental type in the west
to the low, humid subtropical type in the southeast. Rainfall increases
from less than 381 mm (15 in) annually in the western Panhandle to more
than 1,270 mm (50 in) in the Ouachita Mountains. In the higher, more arid,
western part of the state, yearly temperatures range from -23 degrees
C (-10 degrees F) in January to above 38 degrees C (100 degrees F) in
July. In the southeast, temperatures vary from about 0 degrees C (32 degrees
F) in winter to 32 degrees C (90 degrees F) in July.
Vegetation and Animal Life
Grasses are the dominant vegetation in the plains areas of Oklahoma. Shortgrasses
and bunchgrasses are common in the northwest, and savanna and tall grasses
occupy large areas of central and southwestern Oklahoma. The Cross Timbers
areas in the central part of the state are covered with blackjack oak
and post oak trees. Oak-hickory and oak-pine forests are located in the
Ozark and Ouachita regions, respectively. Deer, coyotes, rabbits, and
numerous smaller animals are common. The Wichita Mountain wildlife refuge
has small herds of buffalo, long-horned cattle, moose, deer, and prairie
dogs.
Natural Resources
Oklahoma has long been recognized for the variety of minerals mined. Petroleum
was first obtained from a well in 1859, and since 1896, Oklahoma has been
a leading petroleum-producing state. Large coal reserves are located in
eastern Oklahoma. Glass sand, salt, gypsum, lead, copper, limestone, dolomite,
and granite are also found in great quantities. Much of Oklahoma's abundant
hydroelectric power potential has been harnessed since World War II. The
fertile plains are covered with wheat farms and cattle ranches. Oklahoma's
forests support a paper industry.
PEOPLE
In 1990 the state's population was 82.1% white, 7.4% black, 8% Indian,
1.1% Asian, and 2.7% Hispanic. Population growth in the period 1970-80
totaled 18.2%, most from in-migration. By the mid-1990s, however, the
annual growth rate was under one percent. Some 70% of the people are under
45 years of age. Oklahoma City and Tulsa are the two largest cities. Lawton,
Norman, and Midwest City each have populations greater than 50,000. The
Southern Baptist and Methodist religious denominations have the largest
memberships in the state.
Education
The first schools were established by mission groups and the governments
of the Five Civilized Tribes soon after the tribes' arrival in the 1830s.
When Oklahoma was settled by whites, sections in each township were set
aside for schools.
A state-supported system of universities now operates in Oklahoma (see
Oklahoma, state universities of). There are also over a dozen privately
supported colleges and universities. Oklahoma has a statewide system of
public libraries.
Cultural and Historic Sites
Among Oklahoma's museums are the National Cowboy Hall of Fame and Western
Heritage Center in Oklahoma City, the Gilcrease Institute of American
History and Art and the Philbrook Art Center in Tulsa, and the Woolaroc
Museum near Bartlesville. The Will Rogers Memorial is in Claremore. Indian
City U.S.A. at Anadarko displays authentic Indian dwellings of various
Plains tribes. The Oklahoma Historical Society, supported by the state,
directs activities at the many regional museums. Noted historic sites
include restored Fort Gibson, the Cherokee Village complex at Tahlequah,
Spiro Mound near Spiro, and the Washita battlefield near Cheyenne. Oklahoma
City and Tulsa each have symphony orchestras and theater groups. Ardmore,
Clinton, Enid, Muskogee, and other cities have privately supported theater
centers. Oklahoma's numerous parks and wildlife refuges include the Ouachita
National Forest and the Chickasaw National Recreation Area. College-level
football is very popular in the state.
Communications
Commercial radio broadcasting began in Oklahoma in 1921, and television
broadcasting in 1949. The state has numerous daily and weekly newspapers.
ECONOMIC ACTIVITY
Since 1950 the economy of Oklahoma has changed dramatically. Oklahoma
is no longer basically an agricultural state--mining (primarily oil),
manufacturing, and the various service industries contribute much more
to the gross state product than does agriculture. The worldwide decline
in oil prices in the mid-1980s, however, combined with depressed farm
prices, affected the state's economy very adversely into the late 1980s.
Agriculture
Agriculture in Oklahoma has changed from that of small farms growing a
variety of crops to large farms and ranches specializing in specific crops
or animal production. The production of beef cattle contributes most to
agricultural revenues. Winter wheat is the most important crop; other
significant crops are hay, corn, sorghum grain, soybeans, and peanuts.
The economic crisis that afflicted U.S. agriculture in the 1980s was particularly
hard and prolonged in Oklahoma. State data show that the number of farms
fell from 73,000 to 70,000 in 1985-87, and subsequently thousands of farmers
still faced foreclosure.
Manufacturing
Because Oklahoma is a part of the "Sun Belt" and has an adequate supply
of energy and a capable work force, several large industries have relocated
in the state. Manufacturing is highly diversified. Leading industries
in Oklahoma include the manufacture of petroleum and coal products, nonelectrical
machinery, food products, fabricated metal products, and rubber and plastics
products. The chief manufacturing area lies in a belt from Oklahoma City
northeast to the Kansas-Missouri-Oklahoma border.
Mining
Petroleum, natural gas, and natural-gas liquids (such as natural gasoline
and butane) dominate the mining and energy sectors in Oklahoma. The state
is a national leader in fossil-fuel production, including coal as well
as petroleum and related fuels. Much of the natural gas goes by pipeline
elsewhere in the country, for use as cooking and heating fuel. Many major
petroleum firms have offices in Oklahoma, particularly in Tulsa, Bartlesville,
and Oklahoma City. The value of nonfuel mineral production in Oklahoma
is far less than that derived from fossil fuels, but it is nonetheless
significant. Such minerals include iodine, gypsum, limestone, and clays.
Energy
Oklahoma uses its abundant supplies of gas, oil, and coal to produce nearly
all of its electric power. A small proportion of electricity is produced
by hydroelectric plants, located mostly in northeastern Oklahoma.
Forestry
The Ouachita Mountains are densely forested with pine, oak, and hickory,
and some cypress grows in the valleys of the Little and the Mountain Fork
rivers. Pine-tree farming, now the dominant regulated land use in the
mountains, supplies a large paper mill in Valliant. Sawmills are common
throughout both the Ouachita and Ozark regions.
Transportation and Tourism
Railroads, first built in Oklahoma in the 1870s, were an important factor
in the state's development. Extensive road and highway networks, however,
have increasingly supplanted railroads for freight transport as well as
passenger travel. The McClellan-Kerr Arkansas River Navigation System
(1971) links the Tulsa area with the Mississippi River and thus the Gulf
of Mexico. Tourism is a growing economic activity in Oklahoma.
GOVERNMENT AND POLITICS
Oklahoma state government operates under its original constitution as
approved by the voters in 1907. The constitution has, however, been amended
several times. The state legislature meets annually. The governor and
state officers are elected for 4-year terms, as are state senators. State
representatives serve 2 years. Supreme Court justices, appointed first
by the governor, serve 6 years; they run for retention in the first general
election after one year of service. While a majority of Oklahomans are
registered as Democrats, it is not unusual for a Republican to be elected
governor of the state or U.S. senator.
Oklahoma has 77 counties, each electing its own officers. The chief officials
in each county are the 3 county commissioners. The state has about 590
incorporated cities and towns and several hundred unincorporated entities.
Any city with 2,000 inhabitants may choose to incorporate and to adopt
its own charter. The system of government of most cities and towns is
either the mayor-city council form or the council-manager system.
In 1969 the Oklahoma legislature authorized the division of the state
into 11 substate planning districts to coordinate law enforcement, health
and manpower planning, and community and economic development. These districts
also serve to coordinate the work of the local community with various
state and federal agencies.
HISTORY
Indians lived in and migrated back and forth across what is now Oklahoma
as they hunted for animals and food. The earliest people lived some 15,000
years ago in caves and under rock shelters in the western part of the
state.
The Spanish were the first Europeans to explore Oklahoma. Francisco Vazquez
de Coronado crossed the western part of the state in 1541. Later Spanish
explorers also crossed western and southern Oklahoma but formed no settlements
in the area. The French explored the streams in eastern Oklahoma, and
the trader Auguste Pierre Chouteau (see Chouteau, family) established
the first permanent settlement--now Salina--in 1817.
In 1803 the United States purchased the Louisiana Territory from France,
but the limits of the purchased area were not known until the Adams-Onis
Treaty was completed in 1819. The Red River and the 100 degrees west meridian
became boundaries of the American territory and today form the southern
and most of the western boundary of Oklahoma. The Panhandle, extending
westward to 103 degrees west longitude, belonged to Spain until 1821,
to Mexico from 1821 to 1836, and to the nation of Texas until 1850, when
it became U.S. territory. The Panhandle remained unorganized territory
until attached to Oklahoma Territory in 1890.
After the Louisiana Purchase the area was explored by traders. The traders
shipped the goods they bought from Indians downriver past St. Louis to
New Orleans on flatboats. In 1808 the powerful Osage tribe ceded to the
United States all of eastern Oklahoma north of the Arkansas River, and
in 1818 the Quapaw Indians ceded all claims to lands south of the Arkansas
in present-day Oklahoma and Arkansas. This cleared the way for enactment
of President Jackson's policy of Indian "consolidation."
The government of the United States negotiated treaties with the Indians
living in the southeastern part of the nation whereby they would relinquish
their eastern lands in exchange for territory encompassing nearly all
of present-day Oklahoma. The Five Civilized Tribes--Cherokee, Chickasaw,
Choctaw, Creek, and Seminole--were primarily successful farmers or professionals
who adopted many cultural traits of the white settlers. Their removal
(1830-40) over the various "trails of tears" resulted in many deaths and
severe hardship.
The Choctaws and Cherokees were the first moved. The Choctaws were settled
south of the Arkansas and Canadian rivers, the Cherokees on land north
and east of the Arkansas River. The Creeks were settled north of the Canadian
and west of the Arkansas. At first the Chickasaws were located in the
Choctaw Nation and the Seminoles in the Creek Nation, but later each tribe
was allotted its own area.
To clear the way for the settlement of the Eastern Indians on Oklahoma
lands, the United States government entered into a series of complicated
negotiations with the indigenous groups, culminating in a treaty signed
Aug. 24, 1835. Under this treaty the Comanche, Wichita, and associated
tribes agreed not to make war on persons traveling through their territory
and not to interfere with those Eastern Indians who wished to hunt in
the territory. The Kiowa signed a similar document two years later.
In the new Indian Territory the Five Civilized Tribes organized representative
governments, established towns, and developed farms and businesses until
the Civil War disrupted their way of life. As many of the Indians were
slaveholders, the people of the Five Civilized Tribes were divided in
loyalty between the Union and the Confederacy. During the Civil War many
homes and towns were destroyed, some battles and several skirmishes were
fought, and many Indians were forced to leave their respective nations.
Following the Civil War the U.S. government declared these Indians to
have been allies of the Confederacy and forced the Five Civilized Tribes
to give up their western lands for considerations of 15 to 30 cents an
acre. Much of the western area was then divided into reservations on which
various Plains Indians--Arapaho, Cheyenne, Pawnee, Kiowas, Comanches,
Wichitas, and smaller tribes--were settled.
The Unassigned Lands near the center of Oklahoma, Old Greer County in
the southwest, and the Panhandle were not allotted to any tribes. Texas
veterans of the Civil War settled in Old Greer County, and cattle raisers
staked out ranches in the Panhandle. Many people, especially the "Boomers"
under the leadership of Capt. David L. Payne, demanded that the Unassigned
Lands be opened to settlement. On Apr. 22, 1889, the "horse race," or
"run," method was used to claim the plots in the Unassigned Lands. At
later dates the Cheyenne-Arapaho reservation, the Cherokee Outlet, and
several other reservations were also established by this method. Enid,
Guthrie, and Oklahoma City grew into cities of 5,000 people or more within
six hours. The Kiowa-Comanche lands were opened by lottery. The Unassigned
Lands was officially designated Oklahoma Territory on May 2, 1890.
With the establishment of the Oklahoma Territory and the rapid increase
in population came pressure for statehood. At the same time, settlers
demanded that the Indians be confined to certain areas and that the remainder
be opened to homesteading. Eventually the U.S. Congress appointed a commission,
headed by Sen. Henry L. Dawes, which entered ten years of negotiations
with the Five Civilized Tribes. The Dawes Commission was successful in
persuading the tribes to divide their lands among the individual members
and to abolish their tribal governments.
Allotment of the Indian lands began on Apr. 1, 1899, and was not completed
until 1910. By that time the two halves of Oklahoma had been joined in
statehood on Nov. 16, 1907. Earlier, Indian protest culminated in a meeting
in Muskogee on July 14, 1905, when representatives of all sections of
the Indian Territory adopted a constitution for a state to be called Sequoyah,
but Congress refused to recognize the state.
Since statehood many changes have taken place. Oklahoma has changed from
a rural to an urban state, from an agricultural to an industrial economy.
Its population has increased with each census except 1930 and 1940, during
the difficult times of the Dust Bowl and the Depression of the 1930s.
Oklahoma is an important center for military activities. Petroleum production
remains important, but the industry experienced a downturn that contributed
to a sluggish state economy in the 1980s and early 1990s. In the political
realm, a constitutional amendment limiting legislative power to increase
taxes was approved by voters in 1992.
The state became the site of the worst terrorist incident in U.S. history
when on Apr. 19, 1995, a massive car bomb destroyed the Alfred P. Murrah
Federal Building in Oklahoma City, killing 168 people, including a number
of children.
John W. Morris
Bibliography: Federal Writers' Project, Oklahoma, rev. ed. (1957); Fugate,
F. L., and Fugate, R. B., Roadside History of Oklahoma (1991); Gibson,
Arrell, The History of Oklahoma (1984); Jordan, H. Glenn, ed., Indian
Leaders (1979); Kirkpatrick, S. A., et al., The Oklahoma Vote (1977);
McReynolds, Edwin C., et al., Oklahoma (1961; repr. 1985); Morgan, Dan,
Rising in the West: An "Okie" Family and the Origins of the New Populism
(1992); Morgan, David R., et al., Oklahoma Politics and Policies (1991);
Morgan, Howard W. and Anne H., Oklahoma: A Bicentennial History (1977);
Morris, John W., ed., Cities of Oklahoma (1979) and Geography of Oklahoma
(1977); Morris, John W., et al., Historical Atlas of Oklahoma (1986);
Scales, J. R., and Goble, D., Oklahoma Politics (1982); Skaggs, Jimmy,
ed., The Range and Ranch in Oklahoma (1978); Stein, H. F., and Hill, R.
F., eds., The Culture of Oklahoma (1993); Thiel, Sidney, The Oklahoma
Land Rush (1973); Thompson, J., Closing the Frontier (1986); Wright, M.
H., A Guide to the Indian Tribes of Oklahoma (1987).
(c) 1996 Grolier, Inc.
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