Moving to Oregon - Portland, Beaverton, Corvallis, Redmond
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Oregon,
one of the states of the northwest, lies along the Pacific Ocean coast.
It is bordered by the state of Washington on the north, Idaho on the east,
and Nevada and California on the south. Oregon ranks 10th in area among
the U.S. states with 251,471 sq km (97,093 sq mi), and 29th in population
with 3,032,000 (1993 est.). The capital is Salem. The origin of the name
Oregon is uncertain, but one account traces the name to a corruption of
the French word for Wisconsin (Ouisconsin). The name Oregon was first
applied to a fictitious river, believed to rise in the upper Midwest and
to flow westward to the Pacific. For many years the region was known as
the "American West." During the 1840s it was defined as Oregon Territory,
extending from the Rocky Mountain continental divide to the Pacific Ocean
and from California to Alaska. Oregon, the Beaver State, was admitted
to the Union in 1859, and the remaining part of the original territory
now forms the Canadian province of British Columbia and the states of
Washington and Idaho and western Montana.
Physiographic Regions
Seven distinct physical regions are generally recognized. The Coast Range
(highest elevation: Marys Peak, 1,249 m/4,097 ft), is 320 km (200 mi)
long and from 50 to 100 km (30 to 60 mi) wide; it extends along the state's
coast in the west. Most of the surface is best described as rough, hilly
land rather than as mountainous terrain, but in several places bold headlands
on the coast and rugged peaks in the interior rise above the general level.
The Klamath Mountains, sometimes called the Siskiyou Mountains (highest
elevation: Mount Ashland, 2,296 m/7,533 ft), extend southeast from the
Coast Range near the California border. They are higher, older, and more
rugged than the Coast Range. Lofty ridges trend northeast-southwest, between
which are several small lowlands. The best known of these lowlands is
the Rogue River Valley.
The Willamette River valley (elevations generally below 130 m/430 ft)
is located east of the Coast Range and is up to 80 km (50 mi) wide. The
generally even surface is interrupted here and there by low isolated hills.
Two-thirds of Oregon's population lives in the valley.
The Cascade Range (highest elevation: Mount Hood, 3,426 m/11,239 ft) extends
for the entire length of the state east of the Willamette River valley.
The range is about 80 km (50 mi) wide. No stream crosses the Cascades
in Oregon, but several passes occur at about 1,500 m (5,000 ft). Most
of the range is forested, and melting snow supplies the adjacent lowlands
with water during the dry summer. The Deschutes-Umatilla plateau (elevations
up to about 2,100 m/6,900 ft) is located east of the Cascades. The smooth
upland surface is broken by several canyons, the deepest of which is that
of the Deschutes River. This plateau is Oregon's wheat belt, producing
both spring and winter wheat as well as peas and livestock. Northeast
of the Deschutes-Umatilla plateau is the Blue Mountain region, the most
varied of Oregon's landscapes. At one time all of the region was covered
by lava flows, but erosion has exposed areas of granite and other rocks
that have been further sculptured by glaciation. Several distinct mountain
masses and plateaus occur: the Wallowa Mountains and the Elkhorn and Greenhorn
ranges. These were glaciated, and many lakes and spectacular landscapes
resulted, including the 1.6-km-deep (1-mi) Snake River canyon.
Southeastern Oregon is made up of two distinct surfaces: the high lava
plains, averaging about 1,200 m (4,000 ft) in elevation with many dry
lake beds and some intermittent lakes; and further south the Basin and
Range Province (highest point: Steens Mountain, 3,968 m/9,670 ft), with
alternating broad basins and north-south-trending wooded ranges. Southeastern
Oregon is sometimes called the Oregon Desert, but most of it is semiarid;
only a few small areas have a desert climate.
Rivers and Lakes
The Columbia River flows through northern Oregon, creating the border
with Washington; the river and its tributaries drain 58 percent of Oregon's
land area. Most of the remainder drains directly to the Pacific Ocean
except for a part of southeastern Oregon that has no surface drainage--the
precipitation there either sinks into the ground or evaporates. The lower
Columbia River has a mean flow of over 7,000 m(3) /sec (247,000 ft (3)
/sec), making it the third largest river in the United States. The two
principal tributaries, the Snake River and Willamette River, each average
more than 1,000 m (3) /sec (35,300 ft (3) /sec).
Oregon's numerous lakes were caused both by glaciation in the higher mountains
and by the blocking of streams by lava flows or sand dunes. Of the lakes,
20 exceed 10 sq km (3.8 sq mi) in area, and 20 reservoirs are of comparable
size. Klamath Lake is the state's largest; Crater Lake is the deepest
in the United States (589 m/1,932 ft).
Climate
Rainfall and temperature are affected mainly by altitude and the distance
from the ocean. At low altitudes the January temperature varies from 2
degrees C to 10 degrees C (35 degrees F to 50 degrees F); July temperatures
range from 13 degrees C to 24 degrees C (55 degrees F to 75 degrees F).
Precipitation ranges from less than 250 mm (10 in) in the southeast to
more than 2,500 mm (100 in) on the west slopes of the Coast Range and
Cascades. In the high mountains more than half of the precipitation is
in the form of snow. Almost all the precipitation occurs during winter.
Vegetation and Animal Life
The coniferous trees include Douglas fir--which, as the principal timber
tree, makes Oregon the leading lumber state--and ponderosa pine, Sitka
spruce, and hemlock. The main hardwoods are oak, maple, and alder. Large
areas in eastern Oregon are covered with grass or sagebrush. The heaviest
forests are located in the Coast Range, Klamath Mountains, and Cascade
Mountains, but large portions of these areas have been cut over. Animal
life includes large game animals (deer, antelope, elk, and bear), as well
as many kinds of small game, game birds, and waterfowl. Seals, sea lions,
sea otters, and whales are seen in season along the coast.
Mineral Resources
Oregon has a variety of minerals, many of which occur in small deposits
that are unprofitable to mine except in times of high prices. The state
has deposits of limestone, sand and gravel, and clay. Metals found in
Oregon include gold, lead, silver chromium, nickel, and copper. Oregon
is also a leading producer of pumice.
PEOPLE
The population of Oregon is unevenly distributed. Large areas are very
sparsely populated, but in highly urbanized Multnomah County there are
524 persons per sq km (1,355 per sq mi). About two-thirds of the population
are urban, many living in the 10 largest cities, each with more than 25,000
inhabitants. Leading cities include Portland, Eugene, Salem, Gresham,
Beaverton, Medford, Corvallis, Springfield, and Astoria.
The population is predominantly Caucasian. The black, Asian, and American
Indian communities are small but increasing. Hispanics represent the largest
minority, with 4 percent of the total population. From 1960 to 1980 Oregon's
population increased more rapidly than the nation as a whole, partly due
to inmigration from California; from 1980 to 1990, however, the rate of
growth was below the national average. Well-represented religious denominations
include the Roman Catholics, Baptists, Methodists, Lutherans, Presbyterians,
Mormons, and Episcopalians. There is also a Jewish population.
Higher Education and Cultural Activity
Oregon Institute, later Willamette University, was founded in 1842, and
a number of other colleges soon followed. The state system of higher education
includes 7 institutions and a medical center (see Oregon, state universities
and colleges of). About half of the private colleges are located in or
near Portland, including Reed College and Lewis and Clark College. The
chief libraries are located at the universities, at the State Capitol
in Salem, and at the Oregon Historical Society in Portland. Both Portland
and Eugene have symphony orchestras, ballet and opera companies, and art
museums.
Communications
Oregon has 20 (1988) daily newspapers. Portland's Oregonian has the largest
circulation. The Eugene Register Guard is also influential. In addition,
the state has a number of commercial television stations as well as many
radio stations.
ECONOMY
Oregon's economy has gradually shifted from an emphasis on agriculture
to an emphasis on wood industries, manufacturing, and service industries.
Approximately 79 percent of the nonagricultural labor force are engaged
in wholesale and retail trade; government; services; transportation and
public utilities; finance, insurance, and real estate; and construction.
Manufacturing accounts for nearly 20 percent.
Agriculture
Agriculture employs less than 5 percent of the labor force because most
operations are mechanized. Less than 10 percent of the total land area
is cropland. The main crops are hay, wheat, barley, fruits, vegetables,
grass seed, potatoes, and sugar beets. Livestock includes beef cattle,
dairy cows, sheep, and poultry. The chief agricultural regions are the
Willamette Valley and the Deschutes-Umatilla plateau.
Forestry and Fishing
Oregon's forests are the lifeblood of the state's economy. The harvest
of timber and the processing of lumber, plywood, and paper are major sources
of income. The Douglas fir tree is the chief source of timber, but other
species such as ponderosa pine and spruce also contribute. Hardwoods are
in short supply, but some alder, maple, and oak are used in the manufacture
of furniture. About half of Oregon's timber reserve is on private land
and half is in national forests. Commercial fishing is a minor occupation
in Oregon; salmon, halibut, hake, tuna, crab, and shrimp are the most
important species. About 100,000 km (62,000 mi) of streams, 1,600 lakes
and reservoirs, and the ocean attract many sport anglers each year.
Manufacturing and Energy
Manufacturing in Oregon employs about 200,000 people, most of them in
the wood industries--lumber, plywood, and paper--although there has been
some efforts at diversification of the state's economy. Food processing
and metalworking are other major industries in the state, but the lack
of iron ore and good coking coal has inhibited the growth of heavy industry.
Most of the state's industrial plant is concentrated in the Willamette
Valley.
Lacking coal and petroleum and with very little domestic natural gas,
Oregon depends on hydroelectric power, imported oil, natural gas, and
coal; wood waste; nuclear power; and, to a limited extent, geothermal
power. Hydroelectric power provides much of the state's energy needs.
Most of the state's power plants are located on the Columbia River and
on the margins of the Cascade Range. There is a power distribution grid
interconnecting Oregon, Washington, and parts of Idaho and Montana.
Transportation
Oregon has two major interstate highways--I-5 and I-84--and is served
by freight-carrying rail systems and by some rail passenger service to
larger Oregon cities. The international airport is at Portland, as is
the state's major deepwater port. Other ports are at Astoria, Newport,
and Coos Bay. The Columbia River is the state's major inland waterway
and is used extensively for barge traffic.
Recreation and Tourism
Many thousands of Oregonians and visitors from other states and countries
take advantage each year of the state's fishing, hunting, camping, skiing,
cycling, and hiking facilities, helping to make travel and tourism one
of Oregon's major employers. Among the state's various recreational establishments
are Oregon's one national park--Crater Lake (established in 1902)--as
well as national monuments, national forests, state recreational areas,
county parks, and forest camps.
GOVERNMENT AND POLITICS
Under the constitution adopted in 1857 and later amended, Oregon is governed
by 3 branches. The legislative branch has 30 senators and 60 representatives;
the executive includes a governor elected for 4 years and 5 cabinet offices.
The judicial branch has a 7-member supreme court, a court of appeals,
and circuit and tax courts.
From the standpoint of politics Oregon is a constantly changing enigma.
Voter registration usually shows a Democratic majority, but the vote often
goes Republican. The state's U.S. senators and five congressional representatives
regularly represent a party mix. Regional differences tend to change from
time to time, but in general the coast counties are Democratic, the Willamette
Valley is equally divided, and eastern Oregon is Republican. Oregon experienced
political upheaval in 1995 as charges of sexual coercion and other misconduct
against longtime U.S. Sen. Robert Packwood resulted in his resignation,
following a recommendation of expulsion by the Senate Ethics Committee.
HISTORY
Early History
Indians came to Oregon at least 10,000 years ago and included the Bannock,
Chinook, Klamath, Modoc, and Nez Perce tribes. The Indians changed the
landscape drastically in many areas, burning the forests and grasslands
in order to attract game. The coast Indians had the most stable economy,
depending heavily on abundant salmon, various shellfish, seals, and an
occasional stranded whale. Tribes in the interior were hunters and gatherers.
The first European fur traders, even before Lewis and Clark, were welcomed
by the Indians for the trinkets, tools, guns, and whiskey they provided;
but the Indians resented the arrival of permanent settlers, and many battles
were fought before the Indians were subdued and placed on reservations.
Many ships touched the Oregon coast in the late 1700s and early 1800s,
but these contacts provided little information about the interior. From
1805 to 1806, Meriwether Lewis and William Clark made the first land exploration
(see Lewis and Clark Expedition). Although they visited only the Columbia
River and a small part of the northwestern coast, they gleaned much information
about the remainder of the state from friendly Indians. Their report created
much excitement in the eastern United States, including the halls of Congress,
and among fur traders who had previously trapped and traded in the Rocky
Mountain region. Americans began to think of possessing this distant land,
and Great Britain was also interested. In 1811, Astoria was founded as
a fur-trading station by John Jacob Astor's American Fur Company; soon
thereafter Hudson's Bay Company began to trap and trade in the area.
Settlement and Economic Growth
The first white settlers arrived in the 1830s, and after 1840 immigration
increased. A territorial government was formed in 1843, and provision
was made to establish land ownership. A system of donation land claims
was set up, by which a married man was entitled to 640 acres (250 ha)
of land. Most of the claims were in the Willamette Valley. A boundary
dispute with Great Britain was settled in 1846, fixing the northern border
of what was to become Oregon Territory as the 49th parallel (see Oregon
Question). Immigration increased as many people left the Mississippi River
valley where malaria, tuberculosis, smallpox, and measles were prevalent,
hoping to find better health as well as new opportunities in Oregon. Many
died on the way, more often from disease than from Indian attacks.
With the arrival of new settlers the population increased rapidly, from
12,000 (not counting Indians) in 1850 to 318,000 in 1890. The settlers
brought with them a variety of seeds and livestock, even including hives
of bees, with the intention of farming. Some, however, were diverted by
the gold rush to California in 1849 and others by the discovery of gold
in southwestern Oregon in 1850 and in eastern Oregon in 1860. Gold mining
in the southwest and east stimulated farming and ranching, and Oregon
became an exporter of wheat and beef.
In 1859, Oregon became the 33d state to be admitted to the Union. In the
1870s railroad building aided the timber and other industries and enabled
Oregon fruits to be marketed fresh in the eastern markets.
The Modern Era
The coming of the automobile in the early 1900s led to an extensive road-building
program, further strengthening the economy. In the 20th century the population
continued to grow, especially the urban population, as people moved to
the cities from rural areas. State and local planners began to regulate
the use of various resources, including forests, grasslands, fisheries,
and power production. Meanwhile, schools and colleges grew, and Oregon
produced excellent literary and artistic works. During the late 1980s
and early 1990s, the state's population growth outpaced the national growth
rate. Much of the increase was in-migration from California. Some growth
is attributed to the retirement-age population.
Samuel N. Dicken
Bibliography: Boag, Peter G., Environment and Experience (1992); Buan,
Carolyn M., The First Oregonians (1992); Corning, Howard M., Dictionary
of Oregon History , 2d ed. (1989); Dicken, Samuel N. and Emily F., Oregon
Divided: A Regional Geography (1982); Dodds, Gordon, The American Northwest
(1986); Erickson, Kenneth A., Lumber Ghosts (1994); Highsmith, R. M.,
Atlas of the Pacific Northwest, 5th ed. (1973); Johnson, David A., Founding
the Far West (1992); McArthur, Lewis A., Oregon Geographic Names, 6th
rev. ed. (1992); Mason, Thomas, Governing Oregon (1994); Orr, E. L., Orr,
W. L., and Baldwin, E. M., Geology of Oregon (1994); Ronda, James P.,
Astoria and Empire (1990).
(c) 1996 Grolier, Inc.
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